Theskindirectory: Skin

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Image by Austris Augusts

Exercise is very beneficial for the skin.

Below are some of the benefits of exercising and why you should incorporate exercise into your daily skin routine.

It increases blood, nutrient and oxygen flow to the skin. This can improve your complexion and can aid wound healing.
Exercise increases blood flow and the flow of lymphatic fluid which both aid in the reduction of cellulite.
Sweat flushes out toxins from your body and your skin.
Exercise also helps reduce stress. This has been shown to have a positive effect on your skin especially for acne prone skin. Prolonged periods of stress increase the release of stress-related hormones such as cortisol. Elevated cortisol levels can increase sebum production. Increased sebum production is strongly associated with acne because sebum can block pores
Cortisol levels can also reduce the production of hyaluronic acid leading to dry dehydrated skin.
When you exercise you are more likely to drink water. Your skin is the biggest organ of the body. When you don't drink enough water the majority of your water will go to your most important organs like your heart. Your skin is one of the last organs to get water. Leading to dry dehydrated skin.
Dehydrated skin can lead to dry wrinkled skin and poor functionality of the skin's epidermal layer (outer layer).
Exercise is also a great way of toning and smoothing the skin. Studies have found that exercise increases the production of collagen.

I enjoy outdoor jogging as my daily form of exercise. I started jogging when I was a student and I couldn't afford monthly gym subscriptions. It's easy, it's free and all you need is a pair of good running shoes and you are ready to go.

Today i realised that I had reached my first 100-kilometre milestone. I have been running regularly since April. Initially I ran short distances and increased the distance by one mile every two weeks until I could run a full 5 kilometres.

I have been using the Nike+ running app. (disclaimer -I am not sponsored by Nike). It is free and I found this app very easy to use and to track my progress. I also like this app because it records the calories burnt and my pace. It has helped me stay motivated and on track. I have one friend so far on the app, my sister. I can also see her progress and she can see mine and this way we challenge each other.

It's not to late to get fit and improve your skin by 2017.!

Let me know if you try this app and what you think of it.

Maggie x

References

Williams, S., Krueger, N., Davids, M., Kraus, D., & Kerscher, M. (2007). Effect of fluid intake on skin physiology: Distinct differences between drinking mineral water and tap water. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 29(2), 131-138. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00366.x

The Benefits of Exercising on Your Skin

Image by Pawel Blaxewicz

I remember when I used to wear semi-permanent eyelashes and whenever I would try a different eye lash technician they would ask me to do a patch test some days before my treatment. This used to annoy me because I wanted my lashes done last minute and did not have time to wait a day or two. The reason for the patch test was to see if I was allergic to the glue and to protect me and my eyes.

In dermatology, patch tests have been used for decades to diagnose possible contact dermatitis to certain products including skin care products. Contact dermatitis is inflammation of the skin caused by contact to foreign substances. There are two types of contact dermatitis irritant and allergic.

Irritant contact dermatitis occurs when a foreign substance causes a reaction on the skin (surface). In allergic contact dermatitis, the foreign substance triggers an immune response in the body.

Patch tests are particularly useful for people who are prone to eczema as they can identify potential allergens and prevent possible reactions.

We are all individuals, therefore, we all respond to cosmetics, food, drugs and skin care products differently. It is important to carry out patch tests before using new products to avoid damaging your skin and body. In the long run patch tests can save you a lot of money and they will allow you to maximise the use of new products.

There is currently no national standard for performing patch tests, different dermatologists use different procedures. The procedure when carried out by a dermatologist often involves testing your reaction to over 40 different common substances (allergens). The test will most likely be carried out over at least three different appointments. During the initial appointment the allergens will be left on an area on your skin usually arm or back for about 24 to 48 hours. After which, you will need to return to your dermatologist to see if you have had a reaction.

You can also do a patch test at home. Before using any skin care products I always try and do a patch test at home. I apply the skin care product on the inside of my elbow and I usually give it about two days to see if i react. To save money I usually ask for a sample of a product then I use this sample to do the patch test.

References

• Tanno, L. K., Darlenski, R., Sánchez-Garcia, S., Bonini, M., Vereda, A., Kolkhir, P.. . WAO Junior Members Group. (2016). International survey on skin patch test procedures, attitudes

Why you should do a patch test.

Image by hieu le .source:Unsplash

Hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants. They have been found to increase the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibres, increase the thickness of the skins epidermal layer, help treat sun damage, increase
the skins cell turnover and the skins ability to retain water. The two main hydoxy acids are AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA's (beta hydroxy acids).

Alpha hydroxy acids work on the skins epidermal surface whereas Beta hydroxy acids penetrate deeper into the skin.The pH of hydroxy acids can cause significant irritation to the skin. This is a problem because the pH ranges of hydroxy acids enchance the exfoliation characteristics of hydroxy acids.

The most commonly used BHA's and AHA's include:

1)Salicylic acid - BHA

Salicylic acid is the most commonly used (BHA). It is a non-abrasive exfoliant which has been shown to increase cell turnover and the production of skin cells and proteins. It is indicated for photoaging, acne, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. It has also been reported to reduce sebum production. It works by unblocking pores and dissolving acne causing bacteria.

It is not fully understood how salicylic acid works. It has has been suggested that it weakens the bonds between corneocytes in the stratum corneum on the skin. This results in softening of the stratum corneum.

Do not use salicylic acid if you are allergic to aspirin.

2)Glycolic acid - AHA

Alpha hydroxy acids are also known as fruit acids because they are found in fruits such as lemons,grapes and apples.The mechanism of action of AHAs is not fully understood either however it is suggested that they work by removing calcium ions in the epidermal cells of the skin this results in removal of dead skin cells, increase in collagen and hyaluronic acid production as well as increased cell turnover and reduction in fine lines

Gycolic acid is a (AHA) alpha hydroxy acid. It is commonly used in concentrations of (2-5 %) as an exfoliant, It can also be used at higher concentrations as a skin peel under the supervision of a dermatologist. It has been shown to improve dry skin, sun damage, hyperpigmentantion and acne .It easily penetrates the skin because of the particle size.

Other common AHs include lactic acid and mandelic acid.

"Although salicylic acid and other hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid have been shown to be effective in treating photoaging and hyperpigmentation caused by sun UV exposure, they increase sensitivity to the sun. It is therefore important to use sun protection when using hydroxy acids".

References
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): the chemist's viewpoint and the cosmetician's viewpoint. 1995. Cosmetics, 23(2), pp. 22.

Fartasch, M., Teal, J., & Menon, G. K. (1997). Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: Ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier. Archives of Dermatological Research, 289(7), 404-409. doi:10.1007/s004030050212

Tran, D., Townley, J. P., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2015). An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 9.

Chemical exfoliants

The Korean skin care routine is probably one of the best skin care routines i have ever followed. Although my version is slightly shorter and I customised it to my needs it has been very effective in transforming my skin. It is pretty long but it is worth it. It is very well designed and each step in the routine delivers extra therapy to your skin. Below I have outlined the revolutionary Korean 10 step skin care routine.

1. Remove makeup

The first step of the 10 step Korean skin care routine is removing your makeup. It is always best to start any skincare routine with a clean canvas. Oil cleansers are great for getting rid of dirt and oil. Oil dissolves oil, so oil cleansers will dissolve any oil and makeup on your face.

Most oil cleaners are mixtures of oil and surfactants. The surfactants help oil to dissolve in water, this allows you to rinse off the dirt and oil with water.

2.
Cleanser

Double cleansing. The second step involves using another cleanser to remove excess residue from the previous step. You can use a foaming cleanser or a cream based cleanser depending on your skin type. Foaming cleansers are best suited for people with oily skin as they can be drying to the skin. If you have dry or eczema-prone skin you should consider a cream or lotion based cleanser.

3.
Exfoliator

Exfoliation removes dead skin cells, it increases blood flow to the skin and promotes collagen production. Always choose a gentle non-abrasive exfoliator. Remember to exfoliate in an upwards direction against gravity. This step does not have to be done every day, it depends on your skin type. Once or twice a week is enough.

4.
Toner/ Refresher

Some Korean toners are referred to as "refreshers". Toners are great for balancing your skin's pH. This step also helps prep your skin for the upcoming products to help them absorb better. Opt for an alcohol-free toner.

5.
Essence

This is probably the most important part of the Korean skin care routine. Essences leave the skin glowing and they encourage cell turnover. Gently pat the essence into the skin to help it absorb better.

6.
Serum

Serums are more concentrated forms of essences. They give your skin an extra boost. Serums target certain skin issues. So identify what your main skin concerns are and you can incorporate a serum that targets that concern.

7.
Sheet masks

Sheet masks are very popular in Korea. Sheet masks are saturated in essence and they can also be used to target certain skin issues. This is probably the most relaxing part of the routine where you can put on a sheet mask and relax.

8.
Eye cream

Eye creams are specially formulated for the sensitive area under your eyes. An eye cream should be used before your face moisturiser to help it absorb better. Use your weakest finger to apply eye cream. Either your ring finger or your pinkie finger. Gently dab it in.

9.
Moisturiser

Always use a moisturiser no matter what even if you have oily skin.

10.
Sun protection

Spf protects your skin from sun damage. Try a broad spectrum with an spf of 15 and above. This step offers great anti-aging benefits as your skin is protected from photoaging and free radicals.

11.
Sleep mask

Okay I know it is the "TEN step skin care routine" but how about a sleep mask . Sleep masks keep your skin hydrated throughout the night. They also offer extra overnight treatment for a variety of skin issues. This step should be the last step as the sleep masks offer a barrier to reduce water loss from the skin.

THE SKIN DIRECTORY

The Korean 10 step skin care routine

Picture by Lauren Mancke

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a multifunctional vitamin that can transform and protect the skin. Not only is it beneficial when taken in food and as a vitamin supplement. It is also a beneficial anti-aging skin care ingredient when applied onto the skin.

Below we have discussed some of the benefits of using Vitamin C on the skin. We have also highlighted what you should look for when looking for Vitamin C serums.

THE SCIENCE OF VITAMIN C SERUMS

Vitamin C in the synthesis of Collagen.

Collagen is responsible for the elasticity and tensile strength of the skin. Studies carried out on collagen strength found that collagen fibres were stronger than steel fibres of the same size. Collagen is also the most abundant protein in the human body and in the skin dermis.

As you grow older the skin becomes thinner and the amount of collagen in the skin decreases. Sun exposure has been shown to affect the quality of collagen. Ageing and sun exposure result in weak wrinkled skin.

Topical and oral administration of vitamin C has been found to influence the biosynthesis of collagen. Vitamin C is involved in the synthesis of Collagen by maximising the activity of pro-collagen hydroxylases and stabilising the products and intermediates of collagen biosynthesis.

Vitamin C as an anti-oxidant.

Vitamin C acts as a water-soluble antioxidant which protects the skin from UVA and UVB sun damage. It has been suggested that Vitamin C is sacrificed instead of the enzyme proline hydroxylase Proline hydroxylase is used in collagen production.

The Brightening effect of Vitamin C.

Vitamin C also has a brightening effect/whitening effect. It has been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation in conditions such as Addison’s disease. It works by inhibiting the oxidative reactions involved in melanin production. Melanin is responsible for the pigmentation of the skin.

Melanin is produced by the oxidation of tyrosine by enzymes called tyrosinases. It has been suggested that UVA rays can increase the activity of tyrosinase and this can result in excess production of melanin, which can contribute to hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

Vitamin C serums

Look for vitamin C in the L-ascorbic acid form. By applying vitamin C topically you will be maximising the use of Vitamin C by targeting the skin and bypassing oral metabolism.

What to look for in Vitamin C serums.

The pH of your vitamin C serum must be below 3.5 in order for it to be effective.
The maximum concentration that can be absorbed by the skin is 20%. So look for L-ascorbic acid between 7.5 % - 20%.
Look for a product in an amber glass bottle as this reduces exposure of the serum to sunlight and prolongs the shelf life of your vitamin C serum.
Refrigeration of your vitamin C serum can prolong its shelf life.
Try and apply your vitamin C serum every 8 hours to maintain the concentrations in your skin.
It is best to apply vitamin C after sun exposure as opposed to before sun exposure.

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